Motzei Shabbat (at the end of Shabbat)

My first Shabbat in Israel ended about two hours ago. Here are some first impressions of that Shabbat.

Almost everything in Jerusalem shuts down early on friday afternoon. Before that though, everything is at the highest hustle and bustle as people get ready for Shabbat. I bought groceries at the Shuk, which is one of the covered markets. Delicious food, and even though the exchange rate isn't what it used to be (I'm told), the prices were pretty good. I'll post more about the Shuk, with photos at some point.

As it gets closer to sunset, shops close up, and the streets empty out. There's a mass migration of orthodox Jews, going to Synagogue and Shabbat dinner with families. And then the streets are empty again.

A few clubs stay open, a few restaurants too, but as I walked back from my own Shabbat dinner and peered into these clubs and restaurants, for the first time since my arrival in Israel, there is not a yarmulke in sight. Thursday night the clubs are packed full of people who go through all kinds of security to enter and then can't move an inch in any direction once they get in. Friday night, just a few people somberly nursing beers.

Saturday morning it continues, empty roads, a few taxis, and a few cars, but no buses, no hustle and bustle, just a bunch of men in yarmulkes and prayer shawls running late to services. I don't know where the secular part of the population is, maybe sleeping in.

By Saturday evening (but before Shabbat ends) there is more traffic, and more people out and about. There is one last migration of orthodox Jews, families this time, not just the men. Then, as soon as Havdolah (the official end of Shabbat, about an hour after sunset on Saturday) happens, the streets fill up. Vendors open their stores, the Felafel stands open back up, Hasidic Jews come out onto the street to have their first cigarette in 25 hours (There is no lighting of fires on Shabbat, therefor there is no smoking). The smoking Hasids have an interesting look on their faces as they finish that cigarette. I can't quite tell what it is. Maybe relief? Maybe something else, stress about the upcoming week perhaps.

And now, at eleven at night the place is bustling again.

My own Shabbat was quite nice. Services were at the Synagogue that is loosely affiliated with the School I'll be at. The Rabbi had a good presence and the people who led the prayers had beautiful voices. Following the evening services we had a welcome dinner with the School, and I met a few of the people from my program. I didn't really get an impression of anyone as I was very tired and feeling a bit over-stimulated by all the new sights, sounds, smells, of Jerusalem.


Tomorrow will be the first day of my program, and my first Hebrew lesson. I'm in the absolute beginner level. It'll be good.